Bruce Sheftel, May 31st, 2017

Muhlenberg College: Trexler Library Oral History Repository
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00:00:21 - Introduction—Bruce Sheftel

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Partial Transcript: SC: Today is May 31st, 2017, an interview with Bruce Sheftel. And Bruce, I'm going to start by asking you your information, then go back to your family history. So what is your full name? Where were you born and where do you live?

BS: My full name is Bruce Howard Sheftel. I was born in Allentown and I've lived now in- outside of Philadelphia and in- I have a small apartment in New York. And yeah.

SC: What town outside of Philadelphia?

BS: BlueBell — BlueBell, Pennsylvania.

00:01:04 - Education

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Partial Transcript: SC: What is your education history?

BS: I started in Allentown with elementary school at the Jewish Community Center and then Muhlenberg Elementary School and the Wright School, which was a nursery school. And my- I think my education was sort of like a woodier sampler. I went from there to the Jewish Day School for six years and on to Raub Junior High School. In Raub Junior High School, I was hit by a car in my ninth year, the beginning of my ninth year, and spent that year at home with a broken leg. So in the year of what would have been my- the end of my ninth grade, I went to summer school at Hun School in Princeton, New Jersey. They conditionally accepted me, and I went there for ninth grade again and left after a year, which- came back to Allentown, went to Moravian Prep and made sure we closed that school down. And I was in the last graduating class, but I didn't have two credits, had a disagreement with the school about what classes I was permitted to take, so I then went to Philadelphia and got my high school degree from- with two credits from Penn Charter School, I think it was, at 13th and Arch. So I was a little independent. I didn't go to college in the traditional way. I think, ten or fifteen years later, I went to, first, Harvard Business School — [they] had a special program. And while I was there, I enrolled- found myself accepted at Antioch College in an extension program. And I was- I graduated in the last year that they operated. So I have sort of a history of closing schools or at least attending the last year that they- they operate. So I graduated with a degree in business from Antioch — Business Administration. Then the Harvard experience was not degreed, it was predicated on experience and it was called the OPM Program--Owner/ President Management, which was an extension of their School of Advanced Management.

00:05:02 - 1969-72: Pursuing an Experiential Education by Traveling Through the U.S. and Abroad

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Partial Transcript: SC: [C]ould you talk now about where you have work — you were talking a little bit about your education and if you have more, go on — but then where you have worked and the type of work that you did and do?

BS: Yeah. When I was finishing high school, the world that we lived in had a war in Vietnam that I had no real interest in visiting. I liked traveling, but the accommodations and the body bag coming back seemed a little cramped for me. So I left high school in the summer of I think it was 1969 and traveled across the country. I took my parents’ car, left them mine, and traveled across the country. And when I came back I met a psychiatrist I had been seeing through most of my senior year of school who told me about a square rig sailing ship, which was equivalent to the Coast Guard Eagle. This was a large training vessel for Merchant Marines. And what I didn't know was that he had put his two children on this boat, two of his three- four children. And I didn't know they were having lots of trouble — and the kinds of trouble, I mean, really almost mimicked what was going on in the country in 1970.

00:08:46 - 1972-1978: From Carpentry to Photography—Learning from Lisette Model

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Partial Transcript: BS: I came back to the United States in 1972 and I was looking for work. I was very concerned with connecting my head to my hands, and I had become a carpenter in the meantime and started building furniture. And long- this is probably ‘72, ‘74, I kind of wandered around the country and worked in various jobs, built furniture, as I said, built houses, but mostly moving towards art. And sometime in the- around ‘73, ‘74, after staying a year in New Hampshire building furniture, I revisited an old interest, which was photography, and found myself in New York City, 1974, an apartment on the Bowery — not an apartment, a loft — and spent the next- well, until today, photographing. But I was the town photographer for Huntington, Long Island, and studied with a woman who — for those people in the photography industry would know her, she was Diane Arbus’s mentor, teacher, friend — and that was Lisette Model. And Lisette had a master class I knew very little about, and when I went to show her my pictures, I didn't realize I was like number 19 in line, and there were two-hundred forty people outside that I didn't realize. And she- I was the first person she chose to join her class and that really set the stage for me. This is the first person who recognized that there was something I was- I was about that was of interest to them.

00:10:46 - 1978: Returning to Work for the Family Business

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Partial Transcript: BS: And when she heard that my family had a business, she encouraged me to return to that business, but to continue photographing; and the way she constructed that was that commercial photography would sap the creative juice from you, and if you could prevent that from happening, by working elsewhere and not depending on working as a photographer, but photographing life as a photographer — we would call that being an artist today — that was the better trip. And she didn't know my family, she didn't know what she was telling me to do, and I followed her advice, much to my own chagrin at various times. So by around about 1978 or ‘79, I believe I began working for my family in an office they had in New York City, came back to Allentown really over my objections, but now as part of the family, so I did what the business in the end did. I came back, worked in the factory in Allentown, understood what was going on.

00:15:18 - Early 2000s: Decline of the Textile Waste Industry in the U.S.

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Partial Transcript: BS: That continued until my father sold his half of the business to my cousins in around 2005. And since that time I continued as a photographer, mostly an art photographer, portrait photographer. And the industry of wiping clothes, textile waste really left the United States; our manufacturing, which was the source of the material, left the United States. Papermaking that used that kind of process had already dwindled to almost only two factories. And they became- they came under pressure to bring some of the security elements that they were already selling in other countries to the American currency. So those things all kind of came together in about 2005. My cousins operated the- parts of the business individually, and I believe the trading of fiber pretty much came to an end in 2012. There is still a portion of the business that my cousin conducts, but ironically, there's no American presence. He has employees in Honduras and sells from Honduras to- whether it's Italy or Spain or- and- I'm not quite sure at this point how that all has migrated, but we really don't have that industry here any longer.

SC: Is that because some European countries want better quality paper, value ink? Rag-based?

BS: No.

00:17:15 - "Turning Rages into Riches into Rages"—History of Textile Waste in the U.S.

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Partial Transcript: BS: When we call paper “rag-based paper”, they're really talking about cellulose fibers, so whether it comes from- our understanding of what cotton was went something along the lines that if you grow cotton, the best of it goes to the manufacture of thread and yarn, and what's left, the thrums and the portion of the cotton plant that has seeds and little pieces of dirt motes, that's what they were called, they were second grade and third grade fibers. And the paper companies used to buy this, clean it, and then process it as cotton- cotton rag paper. Our — I don't think it was Sheftel & Sons particularly — but the concept that we came to was- for many years, people used used clothing to make paper because all clothing was made from cotton. But as that became more complex, there were buttons which was great, you snip them off and you had a rag that was all cotton, put it in a big vat of caustic and it would come apart and the fibers would float and there you had the beginning of your paper. But as clothing became more complicated, the zippers replaced simple buttons, and sometime in the ‘60s and ‘70s — I mean, already we had moved away from using used clothes — but the company that made cotton-based social papers and our currency was Crane & Company, and Elias Crane went to the Congress and said no- no confederation can be a true country without their own control of currency, and sold them the idea that they should make paper. The Crane and- Crane & Company has made the currency for the United States ever since — since 1873.

00:39:07 - Origins of the Family Business—Abraham Sheftel

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Partial Transcript: GE: So, let's just go to the beginning, the origins of the business as far back as you know. And I don't know if that starts with your father- grandfather, but if you just want to tell us a little bit the origins of the business and how that progressed, and then we'll talk more about the business as it was, the later incarnation of the business.

BS: You know in our family, we did not really speak about my grandfather's family, where he came from — the interest in our historical origins is probably typical of other families? But what I understood was that my grandfather, who was born on the Russian border or Polish border, never quite clear, as a 16-17 year old was pursued by the Red or the White Army and essentially was a draft dodger who had some brothers and sisters who had come to the United States. And as I understood it, he had some relatives in upstate New York around where the Concord Hotel used to be, and they were in the egg business. I don't know what the family business was, I am told that it may have been beef, but I- whether they had 10 cows or two steers in the front yard, I have never been able to clarify. But my grandfather came to this country in probably 1914 or 1917, and went to Chicago and worked as a butcher, and had some relatives who had a restaurant in New York called the Black Angus and somehow settled back in Allentown.

00:45:40 - Recycling of Cotton Fibers

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Partial Transcript: BS: There's another side of the story which I'm very curious about and don't know the answer to, which is why the New York Jews came to the Lehigh Valley to establish the underwear companies, for instance, that the Lesavoys or other families did. Whether it was the labor pool or what, but my father was in a cycle of business that they created waste, he took the waste away, and there was a use for that waste — it [was] truly recycling. Ironically, when people spoke about recycling in the ‘50s, ‘60s, ‘70s, my father had very little respect for the conversation because we're talking about a hundred million dollar companies where they were recycling scrap or steel, and rags were never mentioned — fiber recycling, I don't think was ever mentioned in the- in the fiber industry news and some of these other publications. It was recycling of steel mostly. So it's kind of ironic that my father was truly in a recycling business that had a product, the client, purpose. But really no- no- no presence, even during a national recognition of this as being something valuable.

00:47:06 - History of the Family Business (cont'd)

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Partial Transcript: BS: So my grandfather simply found a need — people needed to have this waste taken away and, on the other side, people had a raw material requirement, fiber, that was the waste of these other people. So, you know, it always was interesting when we filled out tax returns, were we manufacturers or were we distributors? And of course we answered the question in a way that was advantageous to us. If there was more tax to be paid for a manufacturer, we were distributors. If there were less taxes to be paid for manufacturer, then we manufactured. But the actual process was visualizing how the product that was waste from one industry could be used as the raw material in another.

And there are several stories that float through the family about fabric that we just had no idea what to do with, and many of these ideas precede me, although I did in my own time make use of this story. But a- it's a story of during the Second World War, when nylon was first produced, and my family had 30 truckloads of this material that no one knew what to do with, and they began taking it to the dump, which my grandfather started in 1917. This- we're talking about 1946. He already had a Cadillac. He had a- a building that he bought in 1931 during the Depression on 15th and Sumner Avenue. I suppose my grandfather thought of himself as quite a success, and the idea of taking something to the dump and paying to have it take- taken away was just antithetical.

00:50:27 - Milton Sheftel—Expanding Operations to Greenville, SC

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Partial Transcript: BS: And as I say, my grandfather got his truck probably in 1919. They had a building, I believe it was on Front Street in Allentown, by 1940- by 1931, they bought out of bankruptcy the Bear Manufacturing, which was a furniture company, at 15th and Sumner Avenue, and operated that until they bought a- a ribbon mill, which I think was operated by Haines, in Catasauqua —they bought that I think in 1951 or- they may have bought in Catasauqua before that, I'm not really quite sure, but in 1951 or ‘52, my father — already seeing that the textile industry was leaving the Northeast — traveled to South Carolina. He had been traveling to the South since he got out of the army in ‘46. And by ’51 he hired a young man who was traveling in the South and he hired him to go to the mills and make an introduction into- now this was a pretty established business in the South because they were doing this with cotton waste, not clothing rags, but cotton waste, it was a very developed business — people had minters and motes, a whole language and a whole process, and much of that went to papermaking or to other kinds of stuffing for pillows. So in a certain way they were Jewish and they were Yankees and they were coming into the South, and it wasn't a friendly time. It was difficult. And my father saw that there was a young Jewish man from Chattanooga who was living in Greenville, South Carolina, and he would give him cash, three thousand dollars, and he'd go out and buy rags. And eventually that man opened the facility with my dad there.

00:53:56 - The Sheftel and Malenovsky Family Business

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Partial Transcript: BS: So my grandfather married Sarah Malenovsky. Her brother went to work with her husband. And I don't know if there ever was a peaceful time. Stories don’t- family stories don't speak of a peaceful time. They speak of Abraham wanting to get ahead, he was more aggressive than Jacob. Jacob had two brothers in the business that I didn't know about until I was in my twenties. And another strange, ironic twist is that in 2012- 2012, I came to Allentown to sit with my parents who were looking for a new home and… Next door neighbor who I had gone to elementary school with, showed them a house just catty-corner from their home on Main Street, which they had been in 50 years. So I was 12 when they bought that house. While we were in this house just across the street, I kept hearing something about “Uncle Jake, Uncle Jake.” And I said, “What is- what’s Uncle Jake got to do with the house?” And they said, “Well Uncle Jake lived here.” And I'm not sure if I'm putting this together for you, but my father and his uncle, Jake, separated in business in probably 1960- No. My father came into the business in ‘46 and I believe they separated from Malenovsky in ‘51 or ‘52.

01:01:00 - "Inside & Outside Guys"—the Partnership of Harold & Milton Sheftel

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Partial Transcript: BS: My father and his father were in business after ‘46. You know, my grandfather, according to my father, would regale him with stories of how unfair the other side of the family was and, you know, how he had been alone and had been fighting this battle. It almost sounds like my grandfather confused the- the battles of the First and Second World War with his business history, but now- now my grandfather had his son and his brother, and now it was a fair fight. My father led on one time that he thought it wasn't so very fair and that he was selfish and that he had not only been used as a tool with his father, but that he was happy to have been the blade. We never got back to that conversation. And when I defended him and said, “Well, Dad, you know, I mean, it was-” he really cut me off and, you know, it was a part of the history I wasn't really going to ever really get to.

And what I did learn from the Malenovskys is that Jake's son was eight years old, went into a new business, really didn't know anything about the business, and probably my understanding was more emotionally laden than his. I don't know about the sister of Jake, who maybe — I guess that was Rose — who thought it was unfair.

01:10:22 - "Perfect Timing"—Milton Sheftel's Business Success

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Partial Transcript: BS: But the irony is that my father, in addition to not knowing exactly what to call him — a salesman isn't really enough, entrepreneur is not really accurate; owner operator, well, he was a partner also — and, you know, he was a bit of- I think he had a bit of a Napoleonic complex, which I think to some degree was necessary. But I don't know what the word was for all that and it was- it was, it was fascinating to watch it when it worked, it was. And the irony is that as my father, I looked at this man and was amazed at his sense of timing, which he never spoke with me about, no matter how many times I tried to create a conversation; he seemed not to be aware of it, but I found that to be really quite impossible to believe. And ironically, here we are at the end of an industry. Perfect timing. And he seemed to be one of these entrepreneurs, and again, there must have been many of them who just found themselves- this is not what he wanted to do. He said he wanted to be a raconteur — I'm not sure he knew what that word meant, but what he thought it meant was he wanted to stay in Hollywood and produce talent. This is a guy who I never saw read a book or really go out to the movies unless he was asked to. And yet this is what he claimed that he- he really wanted to have done. And had he done it, he would have probably made hundreds of millions of dollars because of residuals that we didn't have in the rag business, you know? But he left the business in 2005, and there was really no business left. He- he really rode the horse... I mean, you know, he didn't know what business cycles were, didn't really care. But the irony is that he- his timing in life was perfect.

01:14:34 - Differences in the Textile Waste Industry in the U.S. and Europe

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Partial Transcript: BS: In the United States, we manufactured at a scale that the Europeans didn't recognize was much grander, and the advantage to that was if you were purchasing something that was waste, the volume of that waste was on a scale that Europe didn't operate at. In Europe, if somebody bought twenty-six bales of something, twenty six thousand pounds of something, [it] would be a big order. Their trucks were smaller. And, you know, in this period of time, we went from trucks that were thirty-six feet up to fifty — fifty feet. Fifty-two feet. But in Europe, you found that there were many more manufacturers, users of textile, and after the war my speculation is that capital was less important than labor. So you had cities- towns- Prato, which was just north of Florence. You had Bella, which was just south of Lake Como in the north. And these cities- towns became specialty centers. So in Biella, they use cotton thread, cotton fiber. And they made a finer denier yarn.

01:18:16 - Sorting to Color for Europe—the Process of Making Color from Textile Waste

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Partial Transcript: BS: And when we saw them doing that in 1960, we had the idea of doing that on a much larger scale and began separating to color — and not only separating to color, but separating to fiber. So we would- and then, they got- if that wasn't complicated enough, they got the idea that if they sold it to the paper company and the color was bleachable, instead of paying a premium — thirty five cents for a piece of cotton that was all white — they could pay twenty-two cents, put six cents of bleaching into it, and have a two cent discount. But that meant that Sheftel & Sons would have to be able to identify and sell bleachable colors in a packet- in a pack, packing. And then what would happen with the non-bleachable? Well, there's the beginning of the story of sorting to color for Europe. They didn't care about bleachability. They were looking to make yarn. So the dark blue that didn't bleach went to a blue that was not bleachable and was then sold by a salesman of ours who traveled to Europe twice a year to Bella, to Prato, called on these factories with a card of colors, with different shades. Why? Because different manufacturers had different shades of color and we were known for blending them. And we would make bales of one color, but we would pack them all into the same number. And these people were really quite genius and this is an opportunity to tell a story that won't get lost to history.

01:23:52 - Seeing Hues Without Color—the Artistry of Harold Sheftel

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Partial Transcript: BS: I want to add one other story. I say that he stood in front of this wall of color that he had received from- it was only at this point two or three other providers like us. And we would be in America, someone would send us a truck of waste, we’d open the truck, take out a bag, thirty five pounds, and we put it on a pallet, put it on- the next one was yellow, we put that on a pallet. But there may be three or four shades of t-shirts being made. How did you know where it went? Now, I don't think anybody really cared about this, but I said that I was a photographer living in New York and I was a color photographer. And that was- my teacher said to me, “Sweetheart, I'm not-” I’m sorry. She said, “Darling, nobody ever makes serious pictures in color.” And well, that was that. I nevertheless had this passion for color. And when I came to work in the company, I simply looked at the rags and thought about it through my curiosity. And I wondered how my uncle, who separated the colors and organized them on the charts, how he did that, because when I’d go to Europe, they’d say of all the four people that we get color cards from, yours are the best. Really? It's a commodity item, what are we doing? It couldn't possibly be because my uncle is colorblind. I mean, that doesn't make any sense.

01:28:33 - More Products of Sheftel & Sons—Wiping Rags

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Partial Transcript: BS: So I told some anecdotes about one portion of the business, but when that truck would arrive and the door would open and we began to separate out what the cloth was, some went for fiber recycling that we just described; but the larger pieces, they went for wiping cloths, and that was an entirely different industry in America. You know, there was- there's a wiping rag association called I Whack ‘Em [?]. We never were quite sure who they whacked, but...

GE: And so that would be the rags that you’d buy at Home Depot?

BS: Yes. Now they- now they're buying basically cloth made in Pakistan, but- you still can see a bag of rags, especially at the paint stores, is where you'll see them. Yeah.

01:30:21 - Paternal Family History

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Partial Transcript: SC: So what do you know about your father's family as far back- You talked a little bit about that, but as far back as you know?

BS: As I said that my father did not dwell in the land of reminiscence, I didn't- I was young when my grandfather died, I was about eight or ten, so I didn't have that opportunity to question them; and when I did question them, my father wasn't especially interested. What I learned was that they came from Vilna, I believe, or in a town near Vilna. And my grandfather had left to follow his older cousin- older sister and maybe her husband. And he did that because he was avoiding inscription in the- either the White or the Red Army. So that would have been around, I’m assuming, 1917 [or] 1914 during the revolution. I heard that they were in the cattle business, but as I said, I don't know whether that meant they had a cow in the front yard of the shtetl or whether they had ten cows. I have a side of my family that went to Rhodesia and then eventually back to the United States, and they were in the cattle business. They were cousins in New York who owned the Black Angus Restaurant in the ‘40s and ‘50s, and is that an accident or did they know something about beef? I know he didn't know much about women because he gave one prospective date a piece of beef, couldn't understand why she wouldn't answer his calls. He said, “It was a nice piece of meat!” Yeah, so I don't know.

01:39:24 - Changes in Allentown and Its Community

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Partial Transcript: BS: And I think if we look at the city today, which will not resemble the city I grew up in, all the West End and what appeared to be very modest homes are the homes of people who ran businesses, employed a hundred people or two hundred people, and I think the modesty belies some kind of- these people operated their businesses, they- they weren't looking to sell out and be bought out, they- they operated them. And the complexion of the city is quite different, unrecognizable really, to the days that I grew up when the sign said, “ Allentown, 1960, All American City.” You know, it was a city of people making things, doing- having people working for them. And we- what did we do? We made rags. I mean- it's very- it's a peculiar transition for someone like- like myself who's thoughtful about it because we- we don't seem to be making anything. And it's ironic how the industry that I caught the tail end of would really- well, you know, what was it? And yet it was really quite fascinating, all the different things that people made from fiber.

01:40:52 - Maternal Family History

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Partial Transcript: SC: How about your mother's past? Do you have anything to add about your mother's background? Not really?

BS: My mother, you know, grew up in- my mother grew up in Brooklyn. She was the daughter and sister of Jack Lobell, who was also a merchant. He had his own business, he sold Pearl buttons and apparently was quite a character, you know — he had- his first wife and two children died in the 1914, 1917 flu epidemic. And then he began dating my mother's mother and she died in 1945, leaving Gene and Ronnie, who was 17 — my mother was 17. And then he remarried about six weeks later… my mother's mother's brother's wife, so her aunt. And my mother resented that for a good part of her life and not quite sure why, but he- you know she- she loved him very much, and he apparently was quite a character. He was a salesman on the road, but a businessman, independent. And he- there's a story that they called him in Chicago and told him that Hilda was quite ill and he should come as quickly as he could. And he was home that evening and no one seemed to notice because, you know, she recovered from whatever it was and- It was a long- apparently, it was a long and not very nice illness. She was in the house for quite a few years with some caretakers, and he tried to have a- as my mother says, a “quack doctor” take care of her in a rented hotel room.

01:46:53 - Bruce Sheftel's Values and Creative Inspirations

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Partial Transcript: SC: That's perfect. So I have two questions for you. The first one is, what do you value most in life?

BS: Me personally? I think probably honesty. Trustfulness. Telling- Telling what’s honest, but in the context that it was- I can understand that your- your truth may be different, but tell me it, unadorned, and you'll have my respect.

SC: And secondly, what has made you feel the most creative in life?

BS: It's an interesting question because I've been in situations where I didn't understand that I was creative — which really is kind of silly when you look back over- I was a drummer in a band here in Allentown, photographer — I photographed Queen Elizabeth, I think I was twelve, I was the youngest photographer to commercially do that. But I never thought of myself, per se, as creative; I never been given that permission.